RETINAL AS A WELL-AGING ACTIVE INGREDIENT FOR SKIN HEALTH
Skincare with retinal - the one with 'a' instead of 'o' - is the better retinol. The effectiveness of this form of vitamin A against signs of ageing and blemishes is evidence-based - especially in encapsulated form. DR. EMI ARPA SKIN tells you everything you need to know about the effects and use of retinal in skincare products.
What is Retinal?
Retinaldehyde, better known as retinal, belongs to the vitamin A derivatives(retinoids). Retinal is a natural precursor of retinoic acid. In contrast to retinol, it therefore only requires a single conversion stage to be oxidized into its active form. In current studies, retinal is considered to be the most effective over-the-counter retinoid with an optimal ratio of activity and tolerability.
Evidence-based modes of action of retinal on the skin
Retinal is a very well-tolerated well-aging active ingredient for reducing the signs of skin aging (especially caused by UV radiation).
Concentrations from 0.05 % retinal for external (topical application):
- reduce wrinkle depth
- promote collagen synthesis
- increase skin elasticity
- improve the skin texture
- free the pores
- have an antibacterial effect
- inhibit the breakdown of collagen
- refine the pores
- increase skin thickness and make the skin more resistant
- reduce hyperpigmentation (from 0.1% retinal)
What is the difference between Retinal and encapsulated Retinal?
The retinal in DR. EMI ARPA SKIN Absolute A and Absolute A+ serums is encapsulated in liposomes. The encapsulation technique is used for various reasons: to protect the retinal and to maintain its stability and effectiveness. This is because retinal is sensitive to light and air, which can lead to its oxidation and thus to a reduction in its effectiveness. Encapsulation protects the retinal from these environmental influences and preserves its stability. Thus, products with encapsulated retinal have a longer shelf life and their efficacy can be better preserved compared to non-encapsulated retinal. In addition, encapsulated retinal can be transported into the skin in a more targeted manner, which increases its effectiveness: The capsule ensures that the active ingredients of the retinal only take effect after penetration into the skin. Another advantage of encapsulated retinal is that it tends to irritate the skin less than non-encapsulated retinal.
Can Retinal be used during pregnancy/breastfeeding?
All forms of retinoids (retinol/retinal) should generally be avoided during pregnancy and breastfeeding, as they could potentially have negative consequences during pregnancy and/or breastfeeding.
Fewer side effects with (encapsulated) retinal
Due to the controlled absorption of retinoic acid in the form of retinal, retinal is generally better tolerated. Encapsulated retinal in particular tends to irritate the skin less than non-encapsulated retinal, which is an advantage for sensitive skin types who want to enjoy the above-mentioned benefits of the active ingredient. Sensitive and redness-prone skin types should start with a lower frequency and concentration of retinal - for example with DR. EMI ARPA SKIN's Absolute A Retinal Serum.
When should Retinal be used?
Depending on the skin condition and target, retinoids can cover a wide range of different skin concerns. Retinal improves the skin structure - and therefore also the skin quality - by stimulating collagen synthesis. Retinal has this effect like no other active ingredient in the field of skin care. On the one hand, it helps to improve the appearance of the skin: pores become finer, the skin structure is smoothed and pigmentation spots are reduced. On the other hand, or precisely because of this effect, retinal also serves as an excellent active ingredient against ageing processes and sun damage. Retinal therefore accelerates cell division, stimulates collagen synthesis and promotes skin elasticity. These factors slow down or decrease the older we get. Cell division and the comedolytic, antibacterial properties of retinal also have a positive effect on blemish-prone skin.
As a dermatologist, Dr. Emi Arpa advises integrating retinoids (retinol/retinal) into your evening skincare routine. The advantage of using them in the evening is that skincare products with retinal, such as DR. EMI ARPA SKIN Absolute A and Absolute A+ serums can optimally support skin regeneration and work undisturbed. In the morning, the antioxidant properties of retinal protect against the damaging effects of free radicals. In addition, the high photosensitivity of the high-dose retinoids used in such medications reacts. A must when using retinal products: UV protection during the day - ideally with sun protection factor 50.
Sources
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Diridollou S., Vienne M.P., Alibert M., Aquilina C., Briant A., Dahan S., Denis P., Launais B., Turlier V., Dupuy P. (1999). Efficacy of Topical 0.05% Retinaldehyde in Skin Aging by Ultrasound and Rheological Techniques. Dermatology, 199, 37-41.
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