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BLEMISHED SKIN: WHAT YOU CAN DO

Dr Emi Arpa Model

BLEMISHED SKIN: WHAT YOU CAN DO

Blemished skin on the face is a skin condition that can affect people of all ages. This article tells you how to deal with it and improve this condition. 

Retinal can help to refine the skin's appearance and reduce blemishes - the active ingredient is contained in Absolute A Retinal Serum. Go directly to the store here:

Absolute A Retinal Serum 

WHAT IS BLEMISHED SKIN?

Blemished skin is mainly characterized by excessive sebum production (seborrhoea), clogged pores (comedones) and inflammatory lesions such as papules and pustules. It often occurs during puberty, but can also affect adults, especially in the case of hormonal changes.

Important: blemished skin is a skin condition, not necessarily a disease. Acne, on the other hand - the medical term for the most common form is acne vulgaris - is a chronic, inflammatory skin condition. It is characterized by pimples, comedones and pustules.

There are two different types of blemishes: non-inflammatory blemishes (such as blackheads) and inflammatory blemishes (such as pimples and cysts). Blemished skin can be accompanied by enlarged pores, an oily sheen or - on fair skin - localized redness. In dark skin types, on the other hand, blemishes and acne can often lead to pigmentation disorders or dark discoloration.  

TIPS AGAINST BLEMISHED SKIN

What helps against blemished skin? There are a few tips that can have a positive effect on the appearance of your skin: 

  1. Gently cleanse blemished skin
    Blemished skin does not need to be cleaned aggressively. On the contrary: washing too often can damage the skin barrier and promote blemishes. For blemished skin or acne, a mild facial cleanser with a pH-neutral, non-drying formulation is sufficient to remove excess sebum without irritating the face. Aggressive surfactants or formulations with a high alcohol content are less recommended.

  2. Integrate effective active ingredients into your routine
    There are several active ingredients that can be recommended in facial care to combat spots and blemishes: 
  • AHA (e.g. glycolic acid): Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) promote natural exfoliation by gently dissolving dead skin cells. 
  • BHA (e.g. salicylic acid): Salicylic acid is an exfoliating substance and is also lipophilic, meaning that it can penetrate the skin as it has a high fat content. Salicylic acid frees the pores from excess sebum and can help combat blackheads and spots.

Chemical peels with AHA (e.g. glycolic acid) and BHA (salicylic acid) help to remove dead skin cells and cleanse the pores on the face. Mechanical peels are not recommended: they contain small granules - usually in the form of a cream or gel - and can cause micro-injuries to the skin.

  • Retinoids (e.g. retinal): Retinoids can regulate keratinization and reduce sebum production, meaning they have a comedolytic effect. They can also have an anti-inflammatory effect. A retinal serum can therefore be worthwhile for blemished skin.
  • Niacinamide: Niacinamide regulates sebum production and can reduce redness and hyperpigmentation - these are dark spots or discolorations that can remain after blemishes or lesions caused by acne. Niacinamide can therefore help with blemished skin - for example in the form of a weekly face mask.

  1. Incorporate moisture and UV protection
    Blemished skin can also be dry - and also needs moisturizing. For facial care for acne and blemishes, light formulations with ceramides and panthenol, which can regulate the moisture balance and strengthen the skin barrier.
    Important: When dealing with blemished skin, you don't necessarily have to use a skin cream against pimples. Face cream with salicylic acid does help effectively with enlarged pores and spots - but it is even more important to use a moisturizer in the first place. This is because it is a widespread myth that moisturizing skin care additionally stimulates sebum production and may be the reason for oily skin and blemishes in the first place. Also incorporate sun protection with a high SPF into your daily routine - for example in the form of a sun cream or a light SPF fluid. This protects your skin from premature ageing and can also counteract post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

  2. Remove skin blemishes
    Do you want to remove blemishes? You shouldn't try it yourself. Inflamed blemishes and blackheads should only be treated by trained beauticians. They have the necessary expertise and technique to remove facial blemishes safely and effectively without damaging the skin or leaving scars. At the DR. EMI Skin Spa for example, there are hydrafacials that cleanse and moisturize the skin.

BLEMISHED SKIN: THE RIGHT SKINCARE CAN HELP

Step 1: CLEANSE - Mild cleansing 

Use a daily cleansing gel with mild surfactants, for example The Ten Out of Ten Gentle Gel Cleanser. 

Step 2: EXFOLIATE - Exfoliate

Integrate the regular use of a chemical peel with AHA and BHA to exfoliate the skin. The Active Acids Exfoliating Mask, for example, is suitable for this. 

Step 3: PREPARE - Using a toner 

A soothing toner can help with pimples and sometimes acne. Use a product that strengthens the skin barrier and prepares your skin for subsequent care - for example the Essential Essence Skin Balancing Toner.

Step 4: TREAT - Treatment with active ingredients

In facial care against spots and blemished skin, you can use retinoids or niacinamide in the form of a serum or a weekly mask, for example. Retinoids (retinal) are contained in Absolute A Retinal Serum.

Step 5: MOISTURIZE - moisturizing care

Use a light moisturizer such as the Barrier Boost CPA Barrier Cream. 

Step 6: DEFENCE - UV protection

Use a sunscreen with a high sun protection factor and UV filters against UVB and UVA radiation every day to protect your skin. 

MAIN CAUSES OF BLEMISHED SKIN

Hormonal influences

Hormonal changes are one of the most common causes of blemished skin. Androgens, for example testosterone, stimulate sebum production, which can lead to clogged pores. Acne and blemishes can occur at almost any age, even in menopausal women. They are also common during puberty, the menstrual cycle, pregnancy or under the influence of hormonal contraceptives 

Excessive sebum production (seborrhea)

The overproduction of sebum is usually one of the causes of oily skin. It provides an ideal environment for the bacteria known as Cutibacterium acnes, which can promote skin blemishes. In addition, cornification disorders and sebum deposits on the face can prevent sebum from draining properly, which can lead to clogged pores. 

As a result, clogged pores can manifest themselves in the form of closed comedones (white blackheads) or open comedones (blackheads).
Incidentally , the dark coloration of blackheads is caused by the sebum and dead skin cells on the surface of the pores reacting with oxygen.

External factors

  • Stress activates the so-called hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis, or HHN axis for short, and can lead to inflammatory processes in the skin. 
  • UV radiation can affect blemished skin in various ways: it promotes thickening of the skin (hyperkeratosis) and stimulates sebum production, which can lead to blemishes. It also increases the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation - dark spots that remain after spots. Consistent UV protection helps to minimize these effects and maintain skin quality.
  • "Comedogenic substances" in skincare products are often associated with clogged pores and blemishes. However, there is actually no standardized scale or official definition that determines which products - such as face creams - are considered "non-comedogenic".

Dysbalance of the skin microbiome and impaired skin barrier

The skin barrier protects the body from harmful environmental influences and prevents too much moisture from escaping from the skin. It can be weakened, for example, by a disturbed lipid composition (including ceramide deficiency). An impaired skin barrier and an imbalance in the skin microbiome (e.g. due to a reduced number of beneficial bacteria) can make the skin more sensitive to inflammation and blemishes. 

Lifestyle and diet for blemished skin and acne 

A healthy lifestyle and a balanced diet are also among the tips against blemished skin. A low-sugar diet with as few processed foods as possible can help to reduce inflammatory reactions in the body. Omega-3 fatty acids from linseed oil or fish - such as salmon or herring - can regulate sebum production and thus improve the appearance of the skin. Foods rich in polyphenols, such as green tea or berries, have an anti-inflammatory effect. 

Conversely, a diet with a high glycemic index (i.e. foods that quickly release sugar into the bloodstream) in combination with a high consumption of dairy products can promote impurities. 

Stress management: Stress can have a negative effect on the skin barrier: it increases the release of cortisol, which can make the skin more susceptible to impurities.

Good to know: The Skin-Mind-Axis describes the reciprocal relationship between mental well-being and skin health - stress management can therefore help to improve the appearance of blemished skin.

Self-care & skin positivity

Blemished skin is not a sign of poor hygiene and is not self-inflicted. When it comes to blemished skin or skin diseases such as acne, there are many causes, such as hormonal fluctuations or genetic predispositions, which you have little or no control over. 

However, skin problems can cause serious emotional stress. It is therefore important to treat yourself with compassion and focus on a gentle self-care routine that focuses on supporting the skin barrier and your own well-being. 

KEY TAKEAWAYS

Acne is one of the most common skin diseases - affecting more than 230 million people worldwide (as of 2019) - and almost everyone is familiar with blemished skin. It can be caused by both internal and external factors - from hormonal changes to stress. A combination of targeted skincare, a balanced diet and a mindful lifestyle can help to improve the appearance of the skin.

Remember that blemished skin is neither self-inflicted nor a sign of poor hygiene. It is a skin condition that is influenced by various factors. With the right care and a positive attitude towards your skin, you can find a mindful way of dealing with it. If the skin condition does not improve over a longer period of time despite appropriate care, dermatologists can professionally evaluate the skin condition and assess whether further steps are necessary.

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